triplog

Photos from the Bluff

Ok, here’s some of the choice shots from our time at the Bluff (all photos taken by Jane, just to give credit where it’s due). First up the surf…

The first shot above is an unknown charger on a big day of swell, the second one is Gray doing the kneelo boogaloo out at Turtles and the last one is yours truly either about to get slotted or hurt at the Bluff (small wave on the big Thursday of swell - triple overhead on the bigger sets). My last wave of that session (I was out for over 4 hours) was easily the biggest (unmade) barrel of my life. Unfortunately, not caught on camera. It went something like this:
(set looms, starts paddling) “… wow, this is gonna be big”
(takes drop) “woah, get the nose down, get the nose down”
(bottom turns) “easy does it, easy does it, keep the rail gripping”
(looks at wave lining up) “wow, that’s a massive expanse of vertical water ahead of me - get high, get up high, remember to take the high line”
(sets line, wave barrels) [SILENCE] “ohmygod this is huge. there’s room for 2 of me in here. how quiet is it all of a sudden, look at that massive tunnel of water. ohmygod.”
(pumps for speed) “wow. there’s the exit. it’s huge. i could drive a car through that. i can’t believe i’m gonna make this. i’m actually gonna mak…”
[ANNIHILATION]